T: What inspired you to shift from the raw urgency of your graduate work to the quieter strength that defines this new collection?
Y: In my graduate work, there was a raw urgency that came from a very personal and emotional place. For the new collection, I wanted to explore a more mature voice that feels closer to ready-to-wear but still carries intensity. It’s about refining that same energy into something quieter, yet just as powerful.
T: How do you decide which vintage garments deserve a second life through deconstruction, and what kind of dialogue do you have with their past as you rebuild them?
Y: I’m drawn to pieces with distinctive details or finishing because they teach me something about original tailoring. I like choosing garments that challenge me sometimes ones I’m less familiar with, like sportswear. The wear, construction, and history of each piece all become part of the story.
T: When you layer textures, do you begin with how they look together or how they make someone feel when they move in them?
Y: It usually starts with visual contrast since I love the rhythm layering brings to menswear. But the real success comes from how it feels when worn. The weight, drape, and texture have to create presence without overwhelming the form.
T: Where in your process do you let instinct lead, and when does structure step in to shape the outcome?
Y: Instinct leads when I’m draping or layering; that’s where discovery happens. Structure returns through tailoring, grounding the work and giving intention to those intuitive choices.
T: How do the imperfections or traces of wear in the original pieces influence your creative decisions?
They’re like notes from the past. Frayed edges, fading, uneven seams—all of it adds depth and personality. Those imperfections remind me the garment already lived one life, and now it’s being reborn with new meaning.
Y: What draws you to balancing restraint with intensity, and how do you keep both alive in a single garment?
It’s about tension. I love the idea that something can feel quiet yet still powerful. The design might seem understated, but there’s an emotional current underneath, like a song that builds slowly rather than explodes.
T: Are there moments in the making process where you feel like the piece reveals something unexpected about yourself?
Always. Sometimes I realize I’m trying to control too much, and the fabric reminds me to let go. Other times, I find strength in structure it mirrors my own evolution as a designer and as a person.
Y: Which cultural or artistic worlds influenced this collection the most, and how do they show up in your designs?
I was inspired by the underground culture of East Berlin and the way people turned ruins into creative energy. That sense of rebuilding from fragments feels very close to what I do. I’m also drawn to rock music that carries quiet strength beneath the surface.
T: Would you say this collection continues the story you started in your graduate work, or is it carving its own distinct path?
It’s both a continuation and a shift. The emotional intensity is still there, but now it feels more refined more wearable and intentional. It’s the same language, just spoken with a little more understanding.
Y: When someone wears your designs, what do you hope they experience?
I hope they feel calm strength, like they’re wearing quiet confidence. Something that moves with them, not against them.
Editor’s Note:
Yuma’s work lives in the space between resilience and refinement. Her approach to deconstructed vintage isn’t about nostalgia—it’s a conversation with history, a way of giving old forms new life. Each piece speaks to endurance and the quiet beauty of rebuilding. For new designers, her journey is a reminder to balance instinct with intention and to trust that subtlety can be just as powerful as volume. If you’re just starting out, explore design competitions, emerging showcases, or digital platforms like Not Just a Label and Showstudio. Keep building your story, every collection adds another layer to who you are becoming.
Wardrobe Stylist: Masako Ogura
IG: masakoogura
Hair Stylist: Asahi Sano
IG: asahi_sano
Photographer: Yuji Watanabe
IG: yuji_w57
Fashion Designer: YUMA SHIH YUAN HSU
IG: yuanhau
